On a trip to the French Rivera with my girlfriends, we decided to take a day and explore the second smallest country in the world. Monaco is very expensive to stay in so basing yourself elsewhere and taking the train in is easier on the wallet. From our hotel in Nice we took the train in and booked the HOHO bus. If traveling to Monaco you really can’t go wrong with the bus. Being such a small country you can see all the sites in 45 minutes without even getting off. The bus takes you all around Monte Carlo as well as a great viewing area overlooking the entire nation.
Being a fun girls trip we wanted to spend our days unstructured. We really just walked around, went to a casino, and ate some amazing seafood. I highly recommend the French Rivera for a getaway with friends.
I usually only write about our holidays so that friends and family can keep up with what we are doing while living in Europe. I feel compelled to share more about this trip simply because I’ve had SO many people ask me: where we stayed, what we did, how much it cost. The main question I am asked? Was it safe? What they really want to know is, should I go? The answer is YES.
Who doesn’t want to see the last remaining ancient wonder of the world? It is probably something every single person on this planet wants to see. Now really is the time to go. Tourism is low right now. Beat the crowds because soon the tourist spots will be crowded once again.
I can only speak as a mother traveling with toddlers but this is not the type of trip where you book tickets and just wing it. If you have children you need to arrive with a plan. I did a lot of research going into this holiday. I read every blog under the sun, listened to podcasts, annoyed previous visitors with hundreds of questions. You need to be aware of what traveling Egypt will be like. Hopefully I can provide some information that will help you plan your trip of a lifetime!
Now to answer the question you all want to know. Yes, we felt very safe as tourists! (Tourists that go directly to all the sites every other tourist goes to. This is not a trip you want to go off the beaten path with your kids.) The people who say otherwise are the people who listen to the media in America and have never actually been themselves. Would I ever venture out into the cities without a tour guide? No. You will be traveling through very poor areas where everyone wants money from you. They will try to scam you into paying for a service or they will aggressively try to sell you items. They will not be up front about how much an item costs and they will haggle with you until you give in. These people do not want to hurt you, they just want money. In Egypt the average annual salary is $5,000. So just a dollar to them is a lot. This is where your tour guide comes in. They speak Arabic and they act as your advocate.
Be prepared to tip for everything. Even something like going to the toilet you will need to tip to get toilet paper. We are talking like 10 cent. Be prepared that nothing comes with a price tag on it. Everything is up for bargaining. When a someone quotes you a price you automatically need to make a counter offer of 70% LESS what they quoted. Then you can work from there. Do your research as to what the common scams are. For example, at the pyramids there will be men selling these white cloth hats that you can wear on your camel ride. You think about how cute your pictures will look as you ride around the desert. What you have now done is put a big white target on your head for all the others to know you are a sucker and an easy target.
Also, never accept a gift from anyone. It’s not really a gift and you will be expected to pay. Do not allow anyone to put a hat or other clothing on you. If you aren’t looking to buy anything, don’t make eye contact or just say no until they walk away. There are lots of taxi scams and ticketing scams but I won’t go into those since we went with a tour guide. If you go with a tour guide you probably won’t encounter any of these issues at all. We had zero problems because we came to Egypt educated on these matters, aware, and we let our guides help us.
With that said, people in Egypt are very friendly and they love children. We had people ask to take pictures with us. People wanted to give our children high fives or touch them. We were scolded on several different occasions when they felt we spoke to our children too harshly or we worried about how our kids behaved. I felt like they were constantly trying to put our minds at ease. I also felt like because we were Americans we were well taken care of. They want Americans to come to Egypt. We are the ones that spend the most money and tip the best. Every single person we came in contact with asked where we were from. After all, mostly Europeans visit and they can tell immediately we speak differently. We were always greeted with a smile and sometimes a handshake. We were told “you are welcome here”. Our hotel must have called us 5 times a day to ask if we are ok and if we were happy and what we needed. They went above and beyond to make our trip enjoyable. Egypt needs tourism. They wanted us to go back and tell everyone that Egypt is amazing and to bring their children.
The last thing I want to mention before I dive into our itinerary is how to dress in Egypt. Men should dress modestly, making sure armpits are covered and if wearing shorts they should be on the longer and looser side. We made sure that my husband never had a shirt off, even at the beach- because he has religious and military related tatoos. Closed toe shoes are very important because sand will get in your feet and you WILL encounter toilets where you are quite literally stepping in pools of urine. You could also step in camel poo like I did. I wanted to throw out my shoes after our day trip to Cairo. Women should dress modestly, covering legs and shoulders. Wearing less clothing is ok at a resort pool but if ever walking around you should be respectful. Egypt is a country where women’s rights are extremely poor. I wont go into this any further but do your research.
Still reading? Now to the details of our trip!
Wanting a trip that mixed fun and culture, we opted to book tickets with Thomas Cook direct to Hurghada from London. Hurghada is a beachy, touristy town on the Red Sea where all the Europeans vacation, especially the British and Germans. As soon as you get off the plane you will need to queue for your visa. I had read that Visa’s were $25 a person so we brought US dollars. However, we were told that even though we had American passports we needed to pay our Visa in British pounds since we came from the UK on a UK airline. 25 dollars and 25 pounds is not the same price… so we tried to argue our point, but were denied. Thankfully we had brought pounds as spending money for the plane. The next thing we did was get out Egyptian pounds since you will be needing a lot of bills for tipping. As I mentioned before, everyone will expect a tip from you for anything. Next, we stopped at the Vodaphone desk to get sim cards for our phones. I can’t recall the price but they were very cheap.
It’s a really good idea to make sure you have a private transfer booked ahead of time. Once you exit the arrivals area you will immediately have people trying to get you into their taxi. Taxi’s, like anything else in Egypt, are not a set price. They may haggle with you, quote you an unfair price or scam you. Never pay for a taxi before you have reached your destination. Always agree on the price and be specific about the currency in which you will pay. The locals know how to convert currencies in their head, they are experts at this. You will many times be quoted a price in currency other than Egyptian pounds. We booked our hotel transfers with Memphis tours and we had a driver waiting to take us directly to our car. Easy.
We stayed at the Steigenberger Aqua Magic Hurghada for 7 nights… a resort that will forever be compared to all future resorts on future holidays. We paid $800 for a two bedroom suite all-inclusive. Yes, it was that cheap. We booked on booking.com and found that booking our hotel, transfers and flights separately was significantly cheaper than a package from a travel site. It’s 5 stars (for Egyptian standards) and perfect for both couples and families. We stayed in block 2 which is a good central location to the kids pools and kids activities. Block 5 would probably be a good fit for older children as its closer to the taller water slides. There is a kids club, play area, shops, cheesy evening entertainment, and all you can eat food and snacks.
There are so many pools to choose from and many are heated for the winter months. That is really nice since it was warm during the day but it dropped down to the 50’s at night so the water would be very cold. Lots of sun beds and drink services with two pool bars. I think the boys ate their weight in ice cream by the pool.
The hotel was across the street from a private beach. It’s a 5-10 minute walk to get there but they provide golf carts to anyone not wanting to walk. The beach is small, clean, and the water is gorgeous. I never imagined I would get to swim in the Red Sea! Water sports are provided but we didn’t use them. There is a restaurant on the beach which is included in the all-inclusive package. They only serve lunch; pizza, wings, egg rolls, and ice cream. We ate here several times since the buffet food does start to get repetitive after a few days.
We only ventured out into the city one day. We scooped up a taxi outside the hotel and began the ordeal of haggling over our fare. After coming to an agreement our taxi driver asked us if he could take us to all the locations we wanted to go in Hurghada. He said “I need the business”. So he ended up waiting for us outside of each location! This worked out really well since we didn’t have to worry about hailing new cabs.
Our first stop was a small aquarium/zoo. We were the only people there which was really nice since we got individual attention from all of the animal caretakers. It is really expensive for the size but if you have children you know that it does not matter where in the world you go…if you take them to a zoo they will be happy happy.
Our next stop was the Senzo mall which has a small souk, tons of European stores and food, as well as a fabulous kids area with rides and games. Had we known about this place sooner we would have spent much more time here but arrived an hour before closing.
Our last stop was the Hard Rock Cafe. It was the only place we ate outside the hotel in Hurghada. The water in Egypt is very harsh on the bellies of the non locals so they advise you to not drink things with ice or things that have been rinsed with tap water. Thankfully, our hotel used only bottles water for everything (including the tea and coffee machines, I checked). No one wants to get ill on holiday so I was extremely careful about where we stayed and what we ate for this reason. I figured the Hard Rock was safe since the only people who eat here are tourists. Thankfully we never had any tummy troubles during our stay. Make sure you pack some anti diarrhea meds though just in case. Also make sure you hand sanitizer with you at all times since hand washing opportunities may be infrequent.
We had an amazing meal so do make a stop here if visiting. Being the total sucker I am I brought an extra hamburger out to feed all the cats and their babies. Your heart will break by the stray animals you see in Egypt. They are starving, one look at them and you see it. I saw pregnant dogs that looked like they were skin and bones. We saw a dead horse on the side of the road in Cairo. I spent a lot of time trying to feed animals.
This trip will go down in history as one of the best days of my life. I had anticipated a very long day with the kids, stress, and anxiety. Everything ended up going exceptionally smoothly. Not one thing went wrong and I have not one complaint. It was the most beautiful 72 and sunny with a breeze weather. The reason our day went so well? Memphis tours. There are plenty of highly recommend guide companies in Cairo- get one. It is worth every penny. We booked a trip with them through air because its a 5-6 hours drive to Cairo from Hurghada. They picked us up at the hotel at 4 am and took us to the airport. After a one hour flight we were greeted again at the airport and set out on a one hour drive to Giza.
The traffic is chaotic here. Lots of blaring horns and weaving in and out of traffic. Our driver did a great job making us feel at ease on the road. The guide will answer all your questions, go over the plans for the day and discuss the things you see in passing. Most Cairo tours will include going into the city center, the Egyptian museum and souks. We opted to shorten our day and just go see the pyramids and sphinx. Had we not planned to go to Luxor then we would have done the full Cairo tour but we knew we would be going to Souks another time. We have always stuck to our guns when traveling with toddlers and that is to never push them to their limit. Never make the day too long, allow them to nap if they need to or take a break. This is part of what makes exploring the world with them so succesful.
Once we arrived at the pyramids our guide handled everything. I could tell that Shahinaz was a well-respected guide. If she told someone something, they listened. If she told them not to bother us, they listened. If we were quoted an unfair price she would literally yell at them for being unfair, and they listened. She was a huge part in why our day went so well. She was so sweet with our boys, giving them a gift upon meeting them, holding their hands and giving them direction if they needed it. I wrote her company and told them she deserved a raise as I can’t imagine having a better guide. She took hundreds of pictures for us.
Once you pass security and ticketing the great pyramid is right in front of you. It is huge. It is the first thing you see and overwhelmingly a pinch-me type moment. We spent the first ten minutes talking about the history and letting the boys run around and burn energy from the car ride. I love that the world is their playground and they can now add an ancient wonder of the world to that list.
There is an area of the great pyramid where you can walk along the bottom stones which I wasnt even expecting to get to do. You can also tour the inside of a pyramid but we opted not to do that with the boys as it’s essentially empty, tight, dark, walkways and we thought Carter might get scared.
There are camels all around the base of the pyramids but I had listened to a podcast detailing where the best camel operators are located. So I asked our guide to make sure we booked through them. They are located up a sandy road at an overlook. It has toilets (porto potty style), some people selling souvenirs, and a great view. Even if you don’t want to ride a camel you should still go up for the view. We must have taken hundreds of pictures. Our guide has us do all the typical cheesy poses.
By the way, make sure you have plenty of cash in Cairo! Not just for tips but everything you purchase will be in cash. Our camel ride for 30 minutes cost about $20 each for the adults and the boys were free. Our guide told us ahead of time that this was the fair and typical price.
Getting up on the camel was no joke and I am sure hilarious to anyone watching from afar. I must have accidentally kicked mine while trying to hop on and he stood up without warning as I dangled. So definitely make sure you get on before your child. Once you are up you feel like you are incredibly high off the ground. You don’t actually sit on the camels but rather some padding that sits atop its humps to create a flat space. As we went down the hilly sand dunes you are really rocking back and forth and it was a workout holding on while making sure Carter was secure. Once we reached even land I was able to relax more. The boys had a blast. This was the most surreal moment of my trip. The weather was perfect, my family was happy and it felt like we were the only people there.
It’s a good idea to have a hat that is secure or ties around the neck to avoid blowing off. We had to stop many times due to the boys hats flying off and eventually had to put them in our bag. Also, you will need both hands to hold on for most of the trek so dont expect to use a bulky camera. We have a gopro selfie stick that swivels with the press of a button and could be used one-handed.
We stopped halfway and took pictures at another overlook where you can see all 9 pyramids in one shot. Our camel guide took pictures of us and we let the boys run around and play in the sand, laughing as they saw camel poop- completely unaware that this was one of the greatest privileges they have ever experienced.
We made our way back down to the base of the pyramids where our driver and Shahinaz were waiting. I thought the 30 minute ride was perfect for the boys but you can opt for a one hour ride. Kellan of course fell in love with the camel and didn’t want to leave him behind.
Our next stop was to see the Great Sphinx. We walked by some ruins, a wishing well and spent maybe 20 minutes taking pictures and learning its history. History has not been as kind to the sphinx as it has the pyramids so we had to view from behind a gate and not allowed to walk right up to it. Shahinaz did a really great job explaining things to my son in a way that made him interested.
The last stop we made for the day was at the papyrus factory. Papyrus was used to make the first paper as early as 3000 BC. The factory is an air-conditioned building where you will sit, be offered beverages, be able to use a proper toilet, and watch a demonstration as to how the paper is made. There is artwork that you can purchase and we ended up buying 3 large pieces at $300. They are incredibly beautiful and something I will cherish the rest of my life. As with all things, there are no upfront prices here either. When we did start to bargain on price we were told things like “I’ll give you a good price, I’ll take care of you, I’ll make you happy’. Or tour guide takes a break during this time since we are in a building watching a demo. It was not until the very end when he was packaging the artwork we had picked up that we started to bargain. I’m still not sure if we paid a fair price so its worth researching the factory beforehand or asking your guide what fair prices are before entering.
After the factory we headed back to the airport and was back in time for dinner. What a day! Be aware that driving through Giza you will see some things that will tug at your heartstrings. It is very dirty and you’ll see things like women and children rummaging through huge piles of trash. My boys were oblivious to what they saw but you may want to talk about this with older children before visiting.
There aren’t any direct flights from Hurghada so we had to drive to Luxor which takes 4 hours one way. We also booked this trip with Memphis tours and they picked us up at 5 am from our hotel, who packed us breakfast in a bag. Our guide, Mohammed, briefly went over the plans for the day and then everyone went back to sleep aside from me (since I’ve never been able to fall asleep anywhere but face down on a bed). The first portion of the trip is desert and mountain driving where we made one stop at a small shack-like store with proper toilets and coffee.
The second half of the road trip is through farmlands which was the most fascinating part of the journey. Until that point we had mostly seen the resort town, city, and tourist spots. Now I got to see the real heart of Egypt. The poor, rural farming communities with small children that should be in school working sugar cane fields. Donkeys being used for labor. Every women dressed in black where only their eyes show. Men sitting on street corners casually holding guns like it was a cup of coffee . I just sat in the back of the van and took it all in. At least until Carter woke up panicking and decided he needed to poop right then and there in the middle of the village on the side of the street. If ever a moment I was afraid on this trip it was that one. Simply because we were not in a tourist spot and I was terrified the people (who are clearly very modest) were looking at us like it was an indecent or disrespectful act. None of the onlookers said anything though and the driver and guide simply chuckled as Carter went about his business; me repeating “Im so soooo sorry” as they laughed “we are all men here!’
The first stop was the Karnak temples, an ancient compound of temples and buildings which is the second most visited historical site in Egypt. When you arrive there are toilets and shopping you can do before you enter. Please do not ride the horses here as you will be offered a carriage ride. Those poor horses look sick and malnourished. Just don’t. Also, don’t be surprised if children approach you to sell items like bookmarks as their fathers watch from afar. What they are asking for is literally pocket change. Kellan wanted to give one boy a sucker but the boy pulled back his lips to reveal why he couldn’t take it- his teeth were rotted.
Inside the temples our guide spoke with us in-depth on what each structure meant and in which time period it was built. Its simply breathtaking to be standing in the center of this place. The massive columns and the hieroglyphics. We walked around, talked history and let the boys run in the area where tourists were scarce. I have an appreciation for the passion these guides have for the history in Egypt. Even though he has been doing this same tour for 4 days a week going on 15 years; it still felt like he was invested in the stories he told. Proud of the nation’s history.
Our next stop was to the souks in the city for some shopping. We quickly realized that Mohammed was not like our guide in Cairo. He was going to let us become fully immersed in the culture by doing every bit of haggling on our own. At first I was a bit annoyed by this since Shahinaz really took charge of our shopping experience at the pyramids. Then I realized that this was going to be an adventure and experience we would remember. I can look back now and laugh but that trip to the souk was a major fail. We ended up in the second story of a dusty shop where there were carpets piled floor to ceiling. Literally. We expressed interest in the beautiful silk carpets and I naively thought that being in Egypt we could get those for cheap. After the owner charmed our entire family and avoided any questions regarding price for thirty minutes, I finally narrowed down my choices to 3 silk rugs. When we finally got hit with an offer of thousands of dollars for one small carpet we started panicking because we did not have that kind of money and were only willing to spend about $300. We went back and forth forever before realizing we just couldn’t afford this product and we wanted to leave. I felt bad for wasting this mans time. He ended up letting us walk and we had now wasted our entire allocated hour in that one shop and left with nothing! I really wish our guide had stepped in earlier but I honestly think he took us there thinking we would be willing to pay those prices.
For lunch we were taken to a nice hotel overlooking the Nile river. Lunch was included in our tour cost. We were served pizza, soup, and a dish of fish and veggies. Mohammed also ate there but sat at a different table- probably to get away from the hundreds of questions my 4-year-old was asking. Kellan really gets into the history of these places, I tell ya. He had more questions than Ben and I combined. 99% of them being about King Tut.
After lunch it takes 30 minutes to drive over to the west bank where the Valley of the Kings is. This was the highlight of our trip. No words can describe the feeling of being here. The overwhelming history and ancient culture. For those that don’t know, Egyptians cut out tombs into the mountains to place their pharaohs for the afterlife. I can’t even really begin to go into detail all the information about this place but just trust me- its a must see. For 500 years they used this site for their royalty. There are about 64 tombs which would require a long time to view. Being we were on a day tour with limited time our guide took us to some of the more famous pharaohs. It would really need a full day to take everything in. Mohammed didn’t go inside the tombs with us. He would give us the history of the pharaoh and then wait outside while we looked around. Each tomb has a 1-2 people inside to answer any questions. They are also there to check you have purchased a photography ticket which is not included in the price of entrance. It is fascinating how much work and detail go into these tombs. You will want to buy the photo pass.
Everyone has heard of King Tutankhamun. What is surprising about him is that he wasnt even that famous when he was alive as he died as a teen. In fact, his tomb was the smallest we entered. What makes him famous is the discovery of his tomb in 1922. It is the most intact tomb ever to be found and his mummy the best preserved. His mummy lays under glass inside the tomb but pictures are not allowed. His artifacts were then the most displayed in museums helping make him the most well-known and recognizable throughout the world. Even Kellan knew who he was and declares this his favorite moment.
Our next stop was to see the temple of Hatshepsut, a Queen who had a lot of family drama in her day. Our boys were in need of a break at this point so we elected to take pictures from afar and not walk the temple itself.
The last temples we saw in Luxor were of Amenhotep. This was a quick 5 minute stop to take pictures. An ancient earthquake damaged these statues so they have been restored. They had broken into 200 large chunks and eroded by water so they’ve literally been glued back together.
The last adventure of the day came at the alabaster factory which was similar to that of the papyrus excursion. Our guide took a break and we watched a demonstration as to how they make things using alabaster before being ushered into the shop to purchase. We chose a large pyramid for the house and two small ones for the boys. At this point we had become knowledgable on how to haggle prices on our own and instantly cut their quote by 70%, which they accepted. I enjoy buying products that are materials from the region and were made by hand in country. Alabaster has been used in Egypt since ancient times for all sorts of uses.
Our trip back to the hotel was 4.5 hours long because we were coming from the west bank of the Nile. It was a long day but surprisingly smooth and it was nice being able to sit back and relax in the van when we normally are the ones having to drive and navigate on our trips.
I want to touch back on the safety of our trip. We felt safe at all times with our guides and I would take my children back tomorrow if we could. My 4-year-old said it was his favorite trip ever and asks me daily when we can go back. Other cultures just simply aren’t used to the way Egypt desperately seeks tourism dollars. Sure, we had uncomfortable moments in regards to purchasing things but we never felt in fear of our safety. You really just need to be informed as to what to expect which is why I discussed that aspect so much.
To end this blog I will tell the story of us leaving. We arrived to the airport and my husband realized he had left our artwork on the bed of the hotel. There was no way I was leaving that behind so we decided to check into our flight and have Ben go back to the hotel while we waited inside. In egypt there are two security lines. The first security line is when you enter the airport and the second is when you leave the checkout counters to enter the terminal. When Ben tried to exit the airport again the airport police commander would not allow him to leave. He hailed Ben a taxi and instructed the driver as to which hotel to pick up the art from. He then took Ben to a holding room where he asked Ben to sit, talk, and smoke a cigar with him.
When the taxi driver arrived with our goods, Ben tried to give him 200 Egyptian pounds. This is about $11. One would think $11 is not too much to reward someone for driving on good faith alone to your hotel and bringing back expensive artwork. However, it made the police commander very angry that the driver accepted the money because (as he explained to Ben) that was A LOT of money in their country and he does not want his people taking advantage of Americans since they want Americans to come back to Egypt. He said ” this will make us look bad”.
Ben was a bit confused since it wasnt as if the driver demanded that fare. Ben offered it. Alas, the commander got into an argument with the driver and forced him to return half of the payment! He then explained to Ben what we should have been tipping all along was a fraction of what we had been. It kind of puts you between a rock and a hard place because a couple of dollars to us means so much more to them. In America we are used to tipping well for good service. We had good service…. so we tipped well! But to the commander that just reestablished the stereotype that Americans are the ones that should be scammed or hounded the most because we are the tipping culture. Food for thought.
I hope reading this insanely long post gave you insight as to whether making a trip to Egypt is right for you. I personally think everyone should visit once in their lifetime. We grow as people each time we enrich our lives with others cultures. It truly was the experience of a lifetime.
On our way home from a Wales trip we stopped into Bath to explore for a morning. Everyone says Bath is one of the best cities in England and they weren’t kidding. I wish we could have spent more time here. It is actually much larger than I thought it would be and quite picturesque. There is so much to do here from museums to shopping to having the Cotswolds close by— do yourself a favor and spend at least 2 days in the area.
The only thing on my agenda for the morning was to see the Roman baths and the royal crescent. Being the earlier hours of New Years Day it seemed much of the city was still sleeping when we arrived. We found free street parking close to the bath house. Be aware you should probably pre book your tickets and that strollers are not permitted inside the museum. They do have baby carriers that you can borrow. Audio guides are available, which Kellan is really into because he loves history…as well as being able to press the buttons at each information point.
The Romans used the natural hot springs since ancient times and have been modified over time. You can see the steam rising from the water as the cold rain fell. The museum holds artifacts from the Roman period such as stones and coins. We spent about 90 minutes here.
Afterwards we walked around the surrounding area of the city and had brunch. I wish we had more time to explore! Something I noticed about Bath is that every building is the same color stone.
The royal crescent is famous for its architecture, being 30 terraced homes forming a crescent. High society lives here! Its been used in tv and film, including one of my favorites- the Duchess with Keira Knightly.
I can’t believe its taken us 2 years to drive out to Wales… but we have finally done so. We waited until Christmas break since both boys were on holiday and the prices to fly off the island are insane. We found some really great deals on premier inn’s during the week after Christmas (think 40 pounds a night) and decided to hotel hop along the southern coast. We will save North Wales for another trip..a warmer trip.
Fun fact: my husband’s family is from Wales and he was a dual citizen before enlisting in the military. His grandfather was in the Royal Navy but they have lived in America for quite some time now. It’s always fun taking the boys around to places they can see their heritage. We made sure to get the Welsh flags for their rooms so they can always remember their time there.
Day 1: Cardiff
We stayed in the city center and spent a good amount of time just walking around and shopping. There is a castle right in the center but we elected not to tour and just take pictures from the outside. We took the train down to Cardiff Bay where this also a lot of restaurants and shopping. You can take a 20 minute boat ride around the bay for 3 pounds a person. The boys had a great time and the captain let them drive the boat for a bit. There is also a hands on science museum called Techniquest where you can spend a couple of hours.
We drove to Caerphilly where the largest castle in Wales is located (second largest in the U.K.). We set aside a few hours of the day just to tour the castle since there is a lot for the boys to do. Unfortunately, as soon as we parked the car it started to sleet and we made the decision to just keep moving about our day. I have seen plenty of castles at this point and making the kids miserable wasn’t worth it. Seeing from the outside though its evident as a great place to stop with kids, and gorgeous!
If you look up Brecon Beacons National Park you will see that this is somewhere I probably could have done as a vacation all its own. Green hills, waterfalls, the country- its my style. Being on limited time and in cold, wet weather we opted to pick one waterfall. Henryd Falls is easy to get to and not far from the car park with minimal hiking. We were able to have the place to ourselves. In warmer weather you can actually walk under the waterfall. We didn’t attempt this because even standing in front of it we were getting wet. It’s very misty.
The Mumbles is a cute little seaside village just south of Swansea. I imagine in the summer months it gets very busy. Aside from the beach there is shopping, a pier, and restaurants. Not a lot going on down here in the rainy winter so we spent about 30 minutes walking the area of the pier. Well, I actually missed it altogether because Carter was napping and I didn’t have the heart to wake him up.
On the way back to Swansea there is a beach called Three Cliffs Bay. It is a secluded beach that requires a 40 minute hike to get to from the nearest car park. Since we were nearing sunset we found a road with an overlook to get pictures from a distance.
We stayed the night in Swansea and arrived after dark (3:30 pm). After getting some ice cream from a famous local creamery, we took the boys to a play place so they could have some fun and burn some energy. Unfortunately, we also got a case of hand, foot, and mouth disease along with our play. It started with Carter…then Kellan….then Mama. We all slowly developed a fever and it put a damper on the rest of the trip- but c’est la vie. I don’t know how Ben avoided getting it.
We made our way out west to the Pembrokeshire coast. Our first stop ended up being my favorite in South Wales. Tenby is a picturesque seaside city that looks like something you would see in Italy. This place is probably packed in the summertime. We had a good meal, walked around and spent some time at our happy place- the beach! I saw just as many dogs here as a did people so it’s a great place to go when traveling with dogs. I would love to come back here when its warmer and sunny. We probably say that for a lot of places in the United Kingdom but summers here are short there is just no way to fit it all in during that time.
Pembrokeshire continued to impress me. Barafundle Bay and Church Doors cove are two bays separated by a peninsula. With Carter starting to not feel well we parked and took turns exploring the area. The views of the cliffs are gorgeous and the “door” is a cave in the sandstone cliff. There are stairs that lead down to the beach but we arrived during high tide and the waves were quite stormy and crashing right at the base of the stairs. If you want to spend time on the beach here make sure to check the tide schedule first.
We stayed the night at a cute inn by the water in Pembroke Dock. This would be a good base point for anyone wanting to explore Pembrokeshire (which you should-its beautiful).
St. Govans Chapel is named after an Irish monk that lived in a limestone cave in the 6th century. While some of it can be dated back that far, most was built in the 13th century. It was said he was hiding from pirates and decided to live amongst the limestone while warning the locals of possible attacks. Good place to stop if you like to mix history with the gorgeous views.
On our way out of Wales we stopped at the McArthur Outlet mall. This is a good place to stop for anyone traveling with kids because it has a good food court and indoor playground.
Planning a trip to Poland was complicated as I knew I couldn’t go without touring Auschwitz. This is not a place you want to take small children if they are anything like mine. First, we have Kellan who was overwhelmed with emotions and questions during visits to the Titanic experience and Culloden battlefield. Then we have Carter, a toddler with special needs that got us kicked out of a castle tour in Germany for being loud and distracting to others. No way was I bringing these two. Even in a typical museum I hardly get to read or fully absorb information.
We talked about taking turns touring the museum while the other stayed behind in Krakow with the boys. We decided to go ahead with this plan until some friends in Germany mentioned wanting to go to Poland but having the same concerns about their toddler boys. It worked out perfectly meeting them in Oswiecim one morning and spending a full day swapping being with the kids and touring the museum. The men went first, so Kaitlyn and I had breakfast with the boys at a cafe and then walked around the city and a local park.
When the men came back a couple hours later we took the kids to a local play place called Park Family Fun. The boys had the place to themselves and is the perfect place to burn some energy. Kaitlyn and I drove a couple miles to the museum where we chose to tour on a pre booked “individual basis”. This is where you can tour the museum on your own time instead of being in a group. We purchased a tour booklet so that we could still follow a map and read about each building. Word of advise, we were very late for the time slot we had pre booked and we barely made it in. We hadn’t thought it would matter given we were on an individual tour but they almost didn’t let us enter.
Concentration camps are something I’ve learned about my entire life but nothing compares to learning about it as you walk along the same paths an unfathomable amount of murdered people walked. Brutally and unimaginably murdered and for no wrong doing. It is a surreal and humbling experience. You cannot help but think about your family and how fortunate you are.
Auschwitz was established in 1940 and 1.3 million people died here. Some of the buildings we walked through included the gas chamber, crematorium, and experiments wing. While touring the camp you will witness things that will tear at your heart. Perhaps the toughest bit to see for me was upstairs in block 5. On display is 2 tons worth of haircloth made from human hair of the victims. The hair of Jewish women murdered in the gas chambers was used for textiles and sold to German companies. I think it was seeing something so physical and real that used to belong to someone’s body, and in such mass quantity, that put it all into perspective. I decided to skip block 6 which has a room on the children of Auschwitz. I just didn’t think I could handle it emotionally.
Touring Auschwitz is an eye opening experience because not only do you feel humbled and thankful for your life; you will also have the unique experience of walking out a changed person. It’s impossible to come here and not reflect on the world’s history, the need for power, and the desire to not repeat the mistakes once made.
My husband never has much of an opinion on where we holiday but Poland has been the one place he has continuously talked about visiting. I am pretty certain the reasons for going has nothing to go with the sites or culture- he wanted to go because his friends told him how cheap it was. Who doesn’t love a cheap getaway?
They weren’t lying. Poland has been the most affordable place we have been to date. The flights into Krakow were a bit more expensive for the time we wanted to travel (and by expensive I mean over $75 for a ticket), so we saved money by flying into Katowice and driving an hour via rental car.
Where we stayed
P&J Apartments have two bedroom flats one block from the Old Town main square. If you plan to walk to all the sites this is a great place, spacious and clean. The realtor told us the buildings in Krakow are very old and it’s one of the only buildings with an elevator. Parking is easily found on the street. They even sent a team of people to rescue me after the lock jammed when I tried to exit the bathroom. I was stuck in there for an hour, y’all. So embarrassing.
What we ate
The food is so cheap in Poland you will feel like you are eating like royalty. We would even order multiple entrees per person just because we could and wanted to try everything. Pizzatopia just off the main square was so good we ate there twice. Its child friendly, serving ‘build your own’ artisan pizza in 3 minutes. What’s unique about it is how creative you can get with your toppings. The craft beer is great, too.
Another family friendly dine-in place we enjoyed was Taco Mexicano. We can’t help ourselves when we come across Mexican food in Europe as we don’t get it very much. The food was good (again-cheap), and there is a small play area for the kids to enjoy while you wait for your meal.
For Polish food we took to the streets. We had takeaway of kielbasa and fries from kebab shops and traditional dishes from the Christmas market such as perogies. The best thing I tried was grilled oscypek, a cheese dumpling topped with cranberries. Sweet mized with salty…mmmmm!
The Christmas Market
We were in town for the opening of the Christmas market which is held in the main square of Old Town. We spent our evenings walking around with some friends that met us from Germany and letting our boys play together. Europe really knows how to make Christmas feel magical. This was a smaller market with but still charming. Sold the basic sweets, ornaments and other locally made items. There are street performers dancing and playing instruments.
My only disappointment was the lack of children’s activities. Last year we went to markets in 5 different countries and each had small rides, a Santa’s grotto and other activities. This one didn’t have anything like that aside from carriage rides. In fact, we didn’t see a lot of children at the market or generally in the city of Krakow for that matter. I noticed that the city had a young, trendy vibe full of attractive and well dressed people in their 20’s.
Strolling the city
We didn’t make specific plans for things to see in Krakow. We really wanted to just walk around, shop and eat. We spent hours wandering the streets. It is a great city to just stroll about while admiring the architecture. Those are my favorite cities. The ones where you don’t have to be on a schedule, get advanced tickets and wait in lines for things. Poland is famous for its pottery so we made sure to pick up a couple pieces. I also picked up way more ornaments than was necessary because I couldn’t believe how cheap they were.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Wawel castle is considered to be the most historically significant site in Poland. We didnt tour inside the castle but chose to walk the perimeter. Built in the 13th century it is where the kings of Poland resided and now serves as a museum. It is said the area has been populated by humans for 50,000 years. In the middle ages bones were found that the people believed to be dragon bones. They were believed as such up until the 19th century when they were revealed to be of a wooly mammoth. This is why a dragon is the symbol of Krakow.
At the bottom of the hill is a dragon statue that breathes fire every 10 minutes. The boys had a blast pretending to fight the dragon with their swords. Every castle we visit we always tell the boys to look for dragons and protect us with their swords. It was so much fun having this castle display a fire breathing dragon.
**For my next post I will be writing about our trip to the nearby Auschwitz camp**
After some fun outdoorsy trips like Ireland, Scotland, and Croatia, I was looking for somewhere that would have a similar feel. Slovenia proved to be another amazingly family friendly destination that had the perfect combination of fun for the boys and sight seeing for the adults. With just a few days to spare we were able to see everything on my list. Being a bit cheaper, we flew into Trieste, Italy where we rented a car and drove an hour to the capital city of Ljubljana. Know how to pronounce that? Neither did I. Thanks google!
Ljubljana is a charming and picturesque small city that reminded me of Bruges in Belgium. It’s very walkable and does not have a lot of “must see” attractions. One of those places you just walk around and eat street food and listen to street performers. These are my favorite cities in Europe. I just like to eat and take pictures of architecture.
We arrived at night and checked into Hotel Emonec (highly recommend) before heading out to the main square for snacks. I saw that there was an illusions museum nearby that looked similar to the one we enjoyed in Edinburgh. While the boys had a good time, it is much smaller and only took about 40 minutes to complete. Afterwards we had some of the best gelato I’ve had in Europe….you need to stop by Gelateria Romantika during your visit. Strawberry. You’re welcome.
The next morning we walked around Old Town a bit more before heading 40 minutes south where we planned to meet some friends for the day. We have been following the Grassel family around the globe for 9 years now. First Japan, then Florida and now Europe. Our lives have always run parallel and it’s nice having another family that lives a similar lifestyle. They had recommended meeting at Postojna caves since it’s a popular day trip from where they live in Italy.
Postojna caves are the longest cave system in Europe at 24 km long (and pretty old too- at 2 million years). It’s so large you actually get to ride a train through them, which is actually pretty exciting. You constantly feel like your head is going to hit a stalactite. Slovenia is worth visiting simply for this attraction alone. My boys loved the train ride and walking throughout.
Our next stop was 9km north at Predjama castle, a 13th century castle built within a cave. This is one tourist destination that looks exactly like the pictures online. It’s that beautiful. It’s made its way onto my favorite castles list because its got the full package. Not only is it beautiful but there is so much to see inside. From hidden caves to torture chambers and weaponry. Self guided tour headphones are provided with the cost of admission and you’ll learn quite a lot. My favorite thing about this castle was the weapons display as it really puts into perspective how violent the time period was. Morning stars, anyone?
Our next stop in Slovenia was Lake Bled, somewhere I’ve always wanted to visit during the summer months but in retrospect I’m glad we went off season. The changing leaves were gorgeous and the lake not crowded at all. Not being able to swim in the lake was quickly forgotten due to the unexpected upgrade at our hotel. We had booked fairly cheap stay at the 3 star Hotel Savaca only to find out we had been upgraded to its 4 star sister hotel Hotel Golf. I don’t even know how much it would have cost to book there but let’s just say my boys loved it so much Kellan cried when we left…. and asked if we could move there. The pools were amazing. It was an entire complex of pools for all age ranges and the best was the heated outdoor pool overlooking Bled castle at night. We ended up spending more time there than the actual lake.
My absolute must do excursion for the Lake Bled area was to hike the 2 mile Vintgar Gorge to Sum waterfall. It’s a hike along raised wooden platforms along the water, similar to that of Plitvice lakes in Croatia. We woke up, ate breakfast and headed directly to the Gorge. About 10 minutes in we came to a gate and discovered the rest of the path was closed for maintenance. My heart just sank because it was beautiful outside and our only day we could make the hike. In my mind all I could think about was the FOMO I would forever have from coming all the way to Slovenia and not seeing Vintgar Gorge and the waterfall.
Back at the gorge entrance I noticed an unmarked path leading up the mountain. We decided to start hiking up the mountain in hopes that maybe it was an alternative route to the waterfall or it at least gave us views of other parts of the gorge. We hiked for about 20 minutes uphill with no signs of anything we wanted to find, all the while the trail becoming more and more dangerous with the path being right on a mountain cliff. We eventually ran into a woman on her way down that spoke little english but managed to tell me that the path did lead to the waterfall but that it was a long ways away. Having come so far already I didn’t want to turn around but Ben was more than happy to take the kids back to the car and wait for me.
I now understand why so many women enjoy traveling alone because the hour I had solo in the Julian Alps was one of the most peaceful and reflective times of my life. The views were just breathtaking. I eventually started coming down the mountain and crossed paths with a elderly man cutting wood who helped point me into the direction of the waterfall. A short time later I realized I was heading towards a small village. I came upon another man leading his horses out to pasture and he directed me to the village which would have signs for the waterfall.
Pulling out my phone I gathered that Ben was only a 20 minute drive away and could actually meet me there. Having originally planned to hike the gorge to the waterfall I had no idea it actually had a car park and you could drive right up to it. So here I am walking through these people’s muddy horse pastures with them probably thinking I’m a crazy person. I need to say that the people in Slovenia are the kindest and most helpful people.
Sum waterfall was worth the trouble. There is a bridge that walks right over its top and I had the place to myself until my family arrived…another reason why I love off season travel.
The rest of our day was spent around Lake Bled taking in the sights. Our first stop was to Bled castle which has the most incredible views over the surrounding area. It’s the oldest castle in the country- first on record in the 11th century. The castle itself was not much of an excursion with just a couple courtyards and towers but you come here for the view. Down below you can see the Church of the Assumption, another popular attraction at Lake Bled. You can take a boat out to the island but with such short time I was happy just seeing it from above.
We spent some time down by the lake riding ponies, feeding the ducks and listening to live music (polka!). There are stalls with wine tastings, cafe’s and of course…lots of places to stop and eat Bled cream cake. A lot of places seemed to be closed and I am not sure if that was because it was a Sunday or because it was off season. I imagine the lake is quite lively in the summertime.
On our way back to Italy we hit a snow storm and I was thankful we got to see the snow but didn’t have to walk around in it since we were very limited on clothing.
Slovenia is a country I feel doesn’t get enough love from U.K. tourists. Probably because it borders Italy and Croatia which are very popular travel destinations. However, you really need to spend a couple days here, especially if you have children. It’s very safe, family friendly, and affordable.
Before I moved to Europe I lived in the most picturesque neighborhood in Florida with some of the best neighbors a person could ask for. Seriously- this place was straight out of a Nicholas Sparks movie. Erica and April became like family during our time there and when they decided to visit me in England I was ecstatic. There is nothing like some girl time to recharge your body and mind in the midst of raisin’ babies. Shout out to the hubbies for making this trip possible.
We flew into Venice late on a Friday night and took the bus to the Piazzale Roma. This is as far as a bus can take you- it’s all water taxi’s after this point. We opted to walk to our hotel which was a good 25 minutes of narrow alley ways and bridges. Thankfully we packed light. I chose a hotel that had 24 hour reception and was right in the middle of the touristy area. Residenza Goldoni is steps away from the Grand Canal and Rialto Bridge, perfect location for being able to walk and take water taxis anywhere you need to go.
We didn’t really have any plans going to Venice other than to walk around. Everyone will tell you that Venice is a good place to “get lost” and that’s pretty much what we did. We have 7 toddlers between the three of us and we honestly didn’t want to be on a schedule, wait in any lines or do anything we would have done with kids. Plenty of prosecco was consumed and one of us decided to get a nose piercing-wasn’t me- but I did think about it!
St. Mark’s square is the famous Piazza that dates back to the 9th century. There are churches and museums to visit in this area but we opted to drink wine and shop for art and jewelry. I found a beautiful watercolor piece for my wall and a bracelet for my niece’s upcoming birthday.
It’s also just a great place to people watch or sit and enjoy the view of boats hopping from island to island. We had plans to taxi over to Murano and Burano but as we were about to board the boat it began to thunder and lightening. I’m not one to be frolicking around when it’s lightening outside so we had to pass on that excursion.
The food In Venice was pretty great. I found the gelato to have been better in Rome but nearly everything else was fairly similar. People think it’s weird when I say this…but probably my favorite dish was a pizza topped with potatoes. Carbs on top of carbs? Yes, please! I think my next trip to Italy will need to entail the countryside and off-the-beaten-path dining since I’m sure that’s Italy at its finest.
The locals were all very friendly but what’s disheartening is the lack of Venetian culture actually living on the island. You have probably seen on the news this summer that many European cities have begun anti-tourism protests. Venice was among one of the cities claiming the overwhelming amount of tourists (mostly those off cruise ships) are raising rents, causing pollution, and forcing locals to move out. Venice was the first city I have visited where this claim was very apparent. It felt like we were only amongst tourists and barely any locals. Almost like being in an theme park. The locals want to protect their centuries old buildings and heritage and I can see why.
Since we were in Venice we had to go on a gondola ride. Sure, it’s pricey but it’s a bucket list item you have to check off. My advice to anyone heading to Venice is to do the Gondola ride first. Since we waited until the end of the day, we were taken down canals we had already walked down multiple times. Doing it at the start of your trip will give it more of a wow factor. However, it was nice going right before sunset. Felt really romantic with two of my favorite gals!
Now that I have visited a couple Italian cities I need to know what should be next on my list for Italy. The country? The beach?
I am not a huge city person, especially when I have two toddlers in tow. We much prefer outdoorsy trips. When my sister and a friend had a couple days overlapping in Europe we all decided to head to Paris and leave the kids with their Daddy. This was my first trip away from both the boys, and it was a little hard but I have to admit I needed a getaway after a couple months of solo parenting.
Where we stayed
This was a pretty last minute trip so getting a hotel in the arrondissement we wanted was impossible. August is a busy month is Paris. Hotel des 3 Poussins in the 9th arr. was a good last minute find. It’s a cute boutique style hotel near a metro station and about 10 minutes walk from the Moulin Rouge. The area was pretty quiet and we felt safe walking around at night. No views of the Eiffel Tower but we were happy!
How we got around
We took a flight to Paris but took the Eurostar train back. I highly recommend the train over flying. Easier check in, no long lines, more comfortable, and we had no luggage restriction. Plus, there were some shady characters circling us at CDG. We had men stopping very close to us and pretending to tie their non-existent shoelaces, etc. Paris is the only place I’ve visited in Europe where I was constantly paranoid of being robbed.
From the airport and within the city we took the metro. It was very cheap, especially compared to the London underground…but it was also pretty grotesque. It smelled of urine everywhere and we generally just didn’t feel safe, especially walking through the metro stations at night. Next time I would just spend the extra money on a cab. Erica and I had an incident where the doors shut behind me before she had hopped on and we got separated without her having a phone. We thankfully found each other at the next station but that was pretty nerve wracking.
We did spend some time on the hop on hop off bus which is a great way to see the city on limited time. We only had one full day and two half days. Even being busy tourist season is ran very efficiently.
Where we ate
Honestly, all the food in Paris was great. Probably one of my favorite things about the city. I was excited at all the possibilities of eating out without children and wasn’t disappointed! Erica had cravings for pistachio macarons and pasta so we had plenty of that. Our favorite restaurant was near our hotel in the 9th arrondissement, Ristorante al Caratello. We had the best meal, some drinks and great conversation with another patron and the owner.
Our only negative experience was outside of the train station before we went home. While the food was good, we chose to eat outside and there were beggars constantly stopping and asking us for money and food. One woman actually took my plate of fries and dumped them into her bag when I said I was done with them. You can avoid the harassment by simply eating inside the restaurant.
The Eiffel Tower
Shame on me… but I didn’t go up the Eiffel Tower. Partly because I don’t like heights all that much and partly because I didn’t want to waste half a day with ticketing and lines. Paris in August y’all- it’s busy. Instead, we chose to enjoy from below. We walked around, took pictures and spent a good amount of time frantically looking for toilets for my sister and niece. Something that’s majorly lacking at one of the largest tourist destinations in the world? Bathrooms. You could probably spend just as much time waiting in line for a toilet as getting up the tower.
My favorite thing about being at the Eiffel Tower was getting to experience it with my niece Emily. My boys are little and I am sure there is plenty Kellan will remember when he is older. But Emily is definitely old enough to remember that she got to travel around Europe with her Aunt. I also loved being able to tell she appreciated what she was experiencing. I am really big on experiences and making memories over having things. This is a special memory we will always have together.
We spent a couple hours walking around the Louvre which was pretty grand and at first a little confusing to navigate. Not quite as maze-like as Vatican City but you can definitely spend a lot of time here. At first we were unsure if we wanted to spend time here, knowing it would be very crowded and seeing the Mona Lisa would be a spectacle. However, I am really glad we decided to go. Afterall, it’s the most famous paintings and the most famous museum in the entire world. We also didn’t have any issues buying tickets on site and walking straight into the museum because we took the entrance from the metro below ground.
And yes, seeing the Mona Lisa was an event. Pretty sure it’s the closest I’ll ever feel to being part of a cow herd. You enter the back of the herd and slowly inch forward while your body is pressed up against strangers on all sides. Once you get to the front you have to take a minimum of ten pictures and then turn around and get a selfie with her too. It’s all a part of the experience and I am still thankful we got to see her. Erica mentioned to me that no one actually gets to sit and admire the painting, and it’s true, which is quite sad. If that’s something you would like to do- don’t go to the Louvre in the summer.
This is the famous avenue surrounding the Arc de Triomphe. It’s a touristy area everyone has to visit when they come to Paris. Lots of shopping, dining, and the views of the Arc are amazing. Don’t buy your souvenirs here though as they are twice as expensive as you pay elsewhere.
Something to consider when you visit this area is preparing your children for what they may see. There are many homeless refugees lying right in the middle of the sidewalks either sleeping or begging for money. At one point I saw three small children sleeping with their mother on a mattress right under a window display. This kind of stuff just tugs at your heartstrings and I imagined the questions my 4 year old would have had had he seen those children. How do you explain to a small child why some children don’t have a home? Why people walk right around them and pretend they aren’t there?
If you speak English (and you probably do if you’re reading this blog) then you have certainly heard the song “Castle on the Hill” by Ed Sheeran. He wrote this song about Framlingham, his hometown and the 12th century castle of the same name. I’ve visited castles all over the world yet it took me 18 months to visit this one an hour from my home. Go figure.
With a couple of my friends visiting I took the opportunity to finally go see this castle on the hill. With the kids in tow, I was pleasantly surprised by the children’s activities put on by English Heritage. There is a slide that descends from the castle walls, role playing activities and storytelling. The gift shop sells ice cream and swords and other toys to make the trip enjoyable for the kiddos.
Something I hadn’t realized was that Framlingham does not have an interior. Past the exterior walls there is only a grassy courtyard where the activities are put on. The admission into the castle gives you access to walk along the upper castle walls, giving you a full view of the countryside in every direction. Gorgeous.
Something else I learned was that the Howard family onced owned Framlingham. The Howards were a very political family during the war of the roses era. That era of England fascinates me. Check out Framlingham for a day of fun and history.